Thursday, 8 May 2014

Outline Plan for Unit 3 digital - Topics and Themes in Digital Imaging

The title and theme for this unit is Abstract Imagery.

This is a continuation from my research in unit 3, exploring other practitioners and different techniques to create abstract images. This is an area of photography that has been directly inspired by the Impressionist and Pictorial movements of art. It is a genre of art that I have appreciated for a long time and having been introduced to a contemporary photographer, Chris Friel and his work during my current photography course, I am greatly inspired to explore and experiment with techniques, attempting to achieve the right effect in my own work.
Researching art history in Impressionism and abstract will my first step followed by examining the first photographers who were influenced by the movement. My research will then move onto current day photographers and the techniques used along with the results they produce.
The artists I will be concentrating on are, 'Monet', 'Whistler' and 'Okeeffe' whilst the early photographers will be 'Annan' and 'Steiglitz', Steiglitz being a key figure in promoting photography as modern art. The modern day photographers being researched are, 'Friel', 'Davis' and 'Jung'.

I will begin my research by using the 'Discovery' facility on the student intranet to source books and journals for reference material. Next step is to highlight the material I find of value and interest on the printed or copied journals/internet tutorials. If there are no books available in the library, I will perform an internet search and check on Amazon and Ebay for them. I already possess a few books on abstract photography but any extra titles needed must be ordered early on to enable them to arrive in time for me to use them. Next an internet search will be performed to support my assignment and relevant information will be downloaded and printed. Once all my source material is collated, I will begin my 1000 word assignment. 

Introduction:
I will begin by explaining my interest in abstract photography, its relationship to art history and how abstract it is defined and described (with quotes).
Middle:
Look at artists and the Impressionism movement along with a comparison to todays modern art, highlighting the difference in access of the public to view it. Explore three different techniques, effects and practitioners with supporting images (with quotes). Techniques will be multiple exposures, intentional camera movement and macro.
Conclusion:
Evaluate the different techniques and how I will relate them to my own work. Discuss the success or failure of my experiences and the impact on my intentions for unit 4.

I will also be compiling a resource sheet to detail the source information I am using and how I found this information.

Initial Sources:

(website)
Chris Friel Photography

(website)
Information - James Craig Annan

(website)
Stephanie Jung Photography

(website)
Interview with Ursula Abresch

(Journal article)
An eye for the modern: the world of Alfred Steiglitz

(Journal article - Encyclopaedia Britannica)
Impressionism (painting style)

(Journal article)
Impressionism, In Painting. Columbia Electronic Encyclopedia, 6th Edition,

(Journal article)
http://www.onlandscape.co.uk/2013/09/multiple-exposure-photography/

(Journal article)
Featured Photographer - Chris Friel

(Journal article) (Discovery search)
Aaron Siskind; Robert Mann Gallery / Andrea Rosen Gallery / Whitney museum of american art / studio museum in Harlem

(Journal article) (Discovery search)
The art of abstract photography 

(Book)
Digital Abstract and Macro Photography
Author: Milburn, Ken
Pages: 305
Publisher: Course Technology / Cengage Learning
Location: Boston, MA, USA
Date Published: 03/2005
Language: en

(Book)
The Edge of Vision: The Rise of Abstraction in Photography
Author: Rexer, Lyle
Pages: 291
Publisher: Aperture (2 Sep 2013) 
Language: English

(Book) 
Turner, Whistler, Monet (The World's Greatest Art)
Author: Pickeral, Tamsin
Pages: 384
Publisher: Flame Tree Publishing; New edition edition (6 April 2005)
Language: English

(Book)
Creative Close-Ups: Digital Photography Tips & Techniques
Author: Davis, Harold
Pages: 240
Publisher: Wiley; 1 edition (14 Feb 2011)
Language: English

(Book) 
Georgia O'Keeffe (Getting to Know the World's Greatest Artists)
Author: Venezia, Mike
Pages: 32
Publisher: Franklin Watts Ltd; New edition edition (May 1996)
Language: English

(Book)
Alfred Stieglitz Camera Work: The Complete Photographs
Author: Roberts, Pam
Pages: 552
Publisher: Taschen GmbH; Mul edition (10 Mar 2013)
Language: French

Tuesday, 6 May 2014

Unit 3 - Learning Outcomes 3.0 + 4.0




Unit 3 Evaluation

On reflection, I do feel that I made the right decision to change my plan for unit 3. My original plan to continue with my urban trees project would have taken far more time than is available to complete to any satisfaction. My current brief to experiment with techniques to create abstract imagery has proved to be both engaging and challenging. Following my research and experimentation for this unit, I have evaluated my progress and success or failure with the techniques and processes I examined. Although I do have access to film cameras, I am comfortable with my decision to utilise my digital SLR for this unit. It has allowed me the greatest freedom to experiment and make the best use of Photoshop features.
Three different techniques were chosen to explore, which, I feel, given the time frame for the unit, was a little too adventurous. I have found that each technique needs quite a lot of time devoting to honing skills and I still have a lot to learn about each area. However, the positive outcome in regard to my research and experimentation has taught me that I need to concentrate on one technique in order to truly understand and be at one with it. I did also experiment with combining the techniques, which, resulted in very confusing and visually challenging images.
My intention is to continue experimenting with intentional camera movement (ICM) and produce results that I am satisfied with. It is fortunate enough my love of trees and landscapes can will be incorporated into this technique as I feel this acts as an excellent subject for ICM due to its colour variation and textures. Seascapes also appear to be well suited to abstract images, this is something I will be attempting in the immediate future. With regard to the other two techniques experimented with, I found multiple exposures the most challenging and fully realise this needs far more time devoted to it and close-up work, although visually appealing, didn’t create the right form of abstraction I am trying to achieve. I didn’t include my results with multiple exposures in my sketchbook research due to being completely unsatisfied with my attempts. What I have discovered through research and my own work, is the deep appreciation of representational images. I found this difficult to achieve through both close-up and multiple exposure techniques. This is perhaps down to my inexperience and subject selection, which, came much more naturally with ICM. Part of my research relates to Chris Friel and Valda Bailey's work, which, I have tried to re-create with my abstract images of rapeseed fields. Although both photographers utilise multiple exposures a great deal, ICM is also a favoured technique and the painterly effect they both present in their images is something I am trying to achieve.
One of the aspects of ICM imagery that I find appealing is the ability to create an image that you struggle to replicate, meaning each image is quite unique. The outcome is dependent on available light, which, changes all the time, the direction the camera is moved, how fast or slow the movement is and even whether it is myself or the camera that changes position. I also discovered that manual focussing is very important to use for ICM and whether in or out of focus is chosen, will greatly affect the outcome. Too soft or out completely out of focus can actually make the image too vague and very difficult viewing. All of these variables contribute to the resulting image captured, this is evident in my work and a feature of ICM that is challenging but satisfying to work with. 

The necessary use of ND filters to enable selecting a slower shutter speed in daylight has also been a learning curve. In some of my images, a three second exposure was used but this resulted in a very strong magenta cast that was difficult to rectify in Photoshop. Until I purchase better quality filters, I have realised that I need to keep my exposures to around 2-2.5 seconds to minimise this problem.


My research, which, is presented in my sketchbook for unit 3, highlighted the use of Photoshop post shoot. This is an area I need to improve as I do use Photoshop but unfortunately, I do not possess advanced skills, which, would be an advantage making this an important area for development.

Using Studio Materials and Equipment Safely and Correctly
  • Make sure all work surfaces are clean and free of debris, litter etc.
  • Put any bags or belongings away from these work areas.
  • Remember the darkroom is a low light, and even no light, working environment. So store coats, bags etc. where they cannot be tripped over.
  • Make sure that the equipment you intend to use are clean, dry and to hand.
  • Check that the enlarger bulb is working.
  • Check that the chemicals you wish to use are fresh.
  • Mix any chemicals you need and place them in the correct apparatus, for example printing trays, before turning off the main white light.
  • Do not take food or drink into the darkroom.
 Correct Use of Chemicals in the Darkroom.

  • Always keep chemicals away from the dry benches and electricity.
  • Water based chemicals and electricity do not mix and can be lethal.
  • Do not touch electrical equipment, enlargers, timers etc. with wet or damp hands.
  • This is one of the reasons darkrooms are built with a dry bench area, for enlargers etc., and a wet bench area, for chemicals, printing trays, developing tanks etc.
  • Do not walk around carrying chemicals in printing trays, developing tanks etc. You can spill them and cause the floor to become slippery.
  • Wear protective gloves if possible, if not, avoid prolonged contact with photographic chemicals. If you have sensitive skin take special care. When printing use printing tongs.
  • When you have finished wash your hands.
  • Take care not to put fingers in or near your mouth and do not rub your eyes
  • If you get chemicals in your eyes, via a splash or rubbing your eyes, use an eyewash and seek medical attention. Take the chemical bottle, showing label, with you when you visit Doctors.
  • If you have a cut or a graze on your hand protect it with a waterproof plaster. After you have finished working in the darkroom remove the plaster as it may have chemicals on it.
  • When pouring chemicals take care not to splash.
  • Always wipe up any spillage right away.

Using Photographic Lighting Equipment Safely

  • Always uncoil all electricity cables, do not leave them wound on any storage spool. If you do this the coiled cable gets hot and there is a serious risk of fire.
  • Tape down, using strong ' gaffer ' tape. This prevents people tripping up on loose cabling.
  • Always use the correct lighting stand for the photographic lighting you are using.
  • Do not over reach/raise the lighting stand, this can cause the stand to tip over.
  • Photographic lights, particularly tungsten, can get very hot. Do not over balance them. If they fall onto a model, for example, they can cause horrific burns to skin.
  • If they fall whilst unattended there is serious risk of fire.
  • If adjusting ' barn-doors ' etc. on tungsten lighting use protective gloves.
  • After you have finished, allow the lighting equipment to cool down before moving.
  • Always use the correct fuse specified for the equipment you are using.
  • Do not over load electricity supply/circuit.

Medium and Large Format Photography

Medium and Large Format Photography

 
Following my experience with 35mm film photography, medium and large format film felt like a natural progression plus I am very keen to observe the difference in quality for myself.
I have been lucky enough to receive a fairly old medium format camera for Christmas, which, makes my exploration into this area of photography quite exciting. The camera I am going to be using is a Yashicamat LM twin lens reflex (TLR) with fixed 80mm viewing and taking lenses, which, was made around 1958-62. It takes 120 roll film only, that produces 12 negatives sized approximately 6x6cm. This camera design was based on the very popular TLR Rolleiflex, used by the likes of 'Brassai, 'Doisneau' and Maier'. The LM on my camera stands for light meter, however, it no longer works meaning I need to use an independent light meter to obtain a correct exposure.

Brassai (1934)
Doisneau (1947)
Maier

My Yahicamat camera along with a Weston Master V light meter

One of the well know problems with this type of camera is called parallax error. In simple terms, the fact there are two lenses, usually one above the other, means what is seen in the viewfinder isn't quite what the lens sees, usually resulting in the top of your intended subject's head being missed off.
There are many other medium format cameras available which, use varying sized film/negatives. Mamiya and Hasselblad are just two of the makes that are highly recognised and respected, being particularly useful as the back is interchangeable between film and digital.

Film Developing and Printing
Part of my use and exploration into film photography includes developing and printing the images myself. This has been achieved by visiting The Engine Room Studio and Workshop and using the excellent facilities there. The process is briefly as follows:
  • Pre-measure all chemicals to be used
  • Using the darkroom (no light) extract the film from the cartridge or roll (35mm and 120/220)
  • Load onto the film spool adjusted for the correct film size
  • Once inside the light proof developing tank, pour in developing solution
  • Agitate the solution by turning the tank at regular intervals during the required time
  • Drain the developer once the time has completed and add stop bath
  • Drain again and add fixer for the required time before removing the reel and rinsing well
  • Add a wetting agent to help reduce water spots before drying and speed the process
  • Remove the film from the spool carefully and hang to dry
Once dry, the negatives can be cut into strips and used to make prints. Printing is where the fun really starts.
  • Prepare the correct developing solutions into trays and have the rinsing bath ready
  • Use an appropriate enlarger and load the chosen frame into the negative holder and carefully place in the enlarger
  • The enlarger light can then be turned on to enable focussing with the focus finder and enlarger lens wide open
  • Stop the lens down before turning off the light prior to creating an exposure test sheet
  • Only 'safe lights' can be on at this point
  • Create the test sheet by covering a sheet of photographic paper with a board and uncover about 2cm at a time with 5 second light exposure intervals
  • Develop the sheet to see assess correct exposure time for your final photograph
  • Developing is carried out by placing the exposed paper evenly in the developer solution tray for 1-2 mins
  • Drain using tongues then place in the stop bath tray (stops developer)
  • Drain again and place in the fixer solution tray for approx 5-10 mins
  • Rinse well and the photograph can now be examined in normal light and exposure time determined
Below are my medium format scanned negatives:


My contact sheet

Below are some of my medium format printed and scanned photographs including a test sheet:








Moving onto large format photography, which, captures a great amount of detail. Large format film is in the form of sheets only. Drawbacks of this type of photography is the cost of the sheet film and physical size/weight of the camera needed. This image to the right shows the camera and lighting set-up used to take a large format portrait of my son using 8x10 sheet film. The camera used is a Cambo 10x8 monorail.



 


Inventor (1929) August Sander
August Sander (1876-1964) was a German portrait photographer who, over quite a period of years that spanned both world wars, produced a large volume of work that documented the people of Germany. Sander used a large format camera to recored the major changes that took place during this time named "Citizens of the Twentieth Century".  His portraits featured all walks of life, with great attention to detail. Although unintentional, Sander's photographs were viewed as political consequently attracting attention from Nazi's due them viewing them a threat to 'pure heroic Germans'.


Technique
Using a darkroom changing bag the sheet film needs loading into the appropriate holder, making sure the slider is inserted the correct way round. The film holder can hold up to two sheets at a time and the slider indicates whether the sheet has been exposed or not. Once the image has been taken the sheet film will require developing in much the same manner as a photograph using trays with the right developing solutions, difference being a safe light can not be used so an audible timer will be required. Once developed, the negative can be used to make a print via direct contact (negative placed on top of the photographic paper).





A camera phone snap of me taken by John Kiely during the 'fix' stage of large format film processing. Once this stage has been reached, lights can be turned back on.






In this instance, I didn't create a test sheet first, which, resulted in two photographs being produced as the first was slightly too dark. The scanned images below evidence how the exposure time determines the finished print. The scanned negative is a little too dark and my first print mirrored this, however the scanned print shows how a shorter exposure time lightens the finished result.

Scanned Negative
Scanned Print



















Evaluation
Firstly, I was surprised by just how much I thoroughly enjoyed the whole film, developing and printing process. It isn't something that can be rushed and I found myself immersed and engaged in the whole process without realising how much time had passed. Film photography ensured that I took my time over composing my photograph, not that I don't give this any thought with digital, however the finite amount of frames I had available with film, and the obvious cost implications, had a distinct effect on me. Framing with my Yashicamat camera hasn't come naturally to me due to seeing the focus screen back to front, something I don't experience with digital. This isn't a negative point but rather something I need to work with and I would like to take time to concentrate my efforts on it.
My attempts are quite limited so far, however, I do realise that each medium has its uses and the subject you choose should suit the medium being used. Using an old analogue camera such as this really does give a feeling of times gone by and what it must have been like for photographers such as Brassai, Maier and Doisneau.

The darkroom techniques proved to be thoroughly enjoyable and left me with a very satisfied feeling upon viewing my own printed photograph. The medium format photographs proved to be a more complex process, I didn't have access to the right size paper for the square format so had crop the prints to fit the paper. This wasn't a problem for the portrait of my son, in fact it proved to be a better composition, however, the tree stump with surrounding urban area, suited the square crop much better and I found myself unhappy with the printed result as it removed too much of the background.

The printed large format photographs are understandably a superior result. The tones and detail visible in the prints including the medium format prints, is something that has to be seen to be truly appreciated, reproducing the prints digitally doesn't do them real justice. Compared to digital images, printed photographs, particularly of people, presents me with an image that I can emotionally identify with. Gone is the harsh, clinical appearance and what I see is something that more resembles my memories. Photographs produced from film are kinder on my eyes and immensely more enjoyable to view and I do have an emotional attachment to my photographs of my son, whether he is smiling or not.
Looking at and reviewing the work of August Sander, I find myself likening the result I achieved of my son to Sander's portraits. A great deal of Sanders subjects had little or no expression and he didn't attempt to flatter them to any degree. My son is actually autistic and didn't like me asking him to remove his glasses for the portrait. This caused him to avoid making eye contact, which, leaves the result looking 'dead pan'. Many of Sander's portraits have this effect and it leaves the viewer to consider whether the person we are seeing is happy or not.

Bibliography

Amber Online. (2011). Sander Collection August Sander (Photographer). Available: http://www.amber-online.com/exhibitions/sander-collection/detail. Last accessed 7th May 2014.

Kay, L. (2003). AUGUST SANDER PORTRAITS FROM THE TWENTIETH CENTURY. Available: http://www.andrewsmithgallery.com/exhibitions/augustsander/sander.htm. Last accessed 6th May 2014.

Tate Gallery. (2010). August Sander 1876–1964. Available: http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artists/august-sander-5319. Last accessed 8th May 2014.